Blue skies up ahead- Loose notes about life & surfing – vol. I

We all are dealing with a strange new reality. For most of us, home is always a place to be at the end of the day, where our most beloved ones are waiting for us with a cosy smile and two arms to hug us. Things change when the only place to be is home. First, there are thousands of plans and we definitely will take the opportunity to finish that book, to organize those papers or to clean that garage. Later, that enthusiasm will probably vanish and the new routines will be just like the word sounds: boring.

Surfing has always been something capable to break with the daily tasks, no matter if you’re a businessman or a farmer. The fact of desiring something so bad but first you need to answer some emails, attend a meeting or feeding some cows, makes the time you hit the water unique. That’s why I never believed on those who sell the lazy beach lifestyle dream:  laying at the beach the whole day, 24/7, and just surfing, nothing else. No responsibilities, nothing to worry about, no distractions. Just the beach and surfing.

Well, now it’s the time you think I’m crazy and no doubt you would take it… Really?! For some time, let’s say one week, one month or even a couple of months… hell yeh. For good? No. The horrible truth? Only a few would. 

You love those moments when you find a break on your job and go surfing. Those are the highlights of your busy day and you just can’t wait for your surfing vacation. 

Then there you are, your moment has arrived and your surfing holidays are finally here. You surf as much as you can and get yourself a nice tan. Period. As time passes you get curious about where you are, the culture, habits, places, etc, but still spend a bunch of time on the water. Then you get yourself a break from the beach life and go discover something else. By then probably your soulmate is your excuse because she/he wants to go and you join her/him because you didn’t want to buy a fight. The truth is that, in the end, you liked it. The break was good because “discovering different places is a good thing but my body was needing a break from all the surfing on these last days”, you say. And you will probably surf again first thing in the morning but, somehow, you will want to experience something new again and not just lay down at the beach the whole day, week, month. Your brain will start to conspire, wondering about what is around you, giving you a weird desire to write something, to read some book about an old interest that you simply never had the time, thinking on a new approach to your business, whatever… 

And then… here we are- home. Not at a fancy beach on the other side of the world but still our brain is traveling and we definitely want to surf. 

For now, we can’t but let’s desire it, plan it, prepare for it, because whenever there’s a break on these new routines we know that the feeling will be special.

Let’s keep on waiting

Watermark Surf House